In the middle of nowhere

These photos are more of the Praia do Forte area. We happen to have some friends who live there - not in the main store littered walking area plaza, but across the highway and back up the back roads a ways. This is the main stretch of road to get to and from their house. Most of the rest of it is more the state of a two-track, complete with pot holes and large ponds in the middle of it (see below). I would say this would be a good place to buy a small lot and retire to, but development has picked up so much that I doubt it would be quite this nice and secluded 10 years from now.

Moto-Taxi

Outside of the big city area of Salvador, taxis are far and few between. It just is not cost effective to run a large taxi service with cars in areas where people don't need to take transportation to many places during the day. What you end up with, then, are motorcycle taxis, which will take you short distances on the back of a motor bike for a relatively low cost. This particular stand is in Praia do Forte, right in the middle of the public walking area full of little shops and restaurants. There isn't much to do in Praia except walk around and window shop, go to the beach, or go to the TAMAR area. If you get sick of one beach, you can take a moto-taxi to another one. In the mean time, the drivers can sit here on their nice covered platform and drink beer.

Maintenance

Obviously, all lights need to be changed once in a while. You know, the ones in your house are so easy to do, but what about your friendly neighborhood traffic light? I know these things need to be fixed once in a while, yet I could not think of any time in my memory that I actually SAW one being worked on, or a light bulb being changed, or anything, in the States. It was just like some kind of magical state that they remained in perfect working order, always.

Not here. This scene is taking place during the end of rush hour here, on one of the only TWO major routs to get ANYWHERE>>> The Orla. And not only did they decide to do this one particular light (I cannot recall if it was burned out, but it might have been) at this time, but they proceeded to do the rest of them in this stretch over the next several days, always it seems, at the same time. Just to give any non-locals a perspective : This is a two lane in each direction road that runs along the ocean - no way to turn off or go around. One lane was completely blocked by this truck.

The two lives of Pineapple

In case you never got to see a real pineapple growing.... Here, they can be both breakfast and landscaping!

Rock samba

This little scene was our background music for our day in Imbaccai, just North of Praia do Forte. A small river meets the ocean here, and it is dotted with barracas and bahianas with acaraje. Most of them have tables in the river and people sit partially submerged, eating a drinking. On this section of the river, there was a large rocky area, which was covered with people with drums and shakers playing some kind of samba for everyone's enjoyment. It was like a large jam session.

Occupation

On our way through Canela/Graça yesterday, we passed through the UFBA area and came across this building. It is the dean's office, I believe. More information can be found here. Most federal things here are doomed to have strikes, be closed at odd hours, etc. I can think of at least 3 times since I moved here that I have heard that the teachers of UFBA have been on strike for one reason or another, usually having to do with benefits and pay I assume. It seems the students are fed up with something (according to the website, it has something to do with "political student assistance" but I am not really clear on it) and so have taken over this building in protest. You can't see well, but the Brasilian flag's "ordem e progresso" have been replaced by "vergonha e desumanidade" and there is something about "robam" taped over one of the stars.

Verticalization

If you have driven around big cities, you have probably found that not all neighborhoods are created equal. There is generally a section of tall buildings, some shorter suburbs, and then houses in the outskirts. In really big cities, maybe you have seen mostly high rises like this one.

In fact, here in Salvador, the city was built, then grew, then rebuilt in it's new borders, then grew, and so we have several places that contain the tall tall buildings with almost every other kind of neighborhood in between. Our new epicenter for tall buildings in the last 5 to 7 years has been Pituba. Just since 2003 or so a few dozen new apartment buildings have sprung up, all high rises selling views of the ocean (at least until the next high rise is built in front of it). This has a way of wreaking havoc on the already established environment, causing massive heat bubbles where no ocean breeze can pass, or strange traffic flow because of increased rich commuters. Unsurprisingly, people generally do not want to see it happen to their nice-non-high-rise neighborhoods. There was recently a protest not far from the site of where this photo was taken, in Patamares, against the "verticalization" of the area. At the moment, this is the only high rise in the area - so marked as of yet that you can actually see the shadow it casts on google maps (search for Patamares, Salvador, Bahia, Brasil), while no other building in the area casts such shadow. There are signs announcing the planned construction of at least 2 other buildings just on this street, so it's a valid concern. But of course, why have a bunch of open land when you can build huge buildings on it...


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A valid, sad reason

Granted, this shot is over a month old. I delayed posting it out of respect for who ever was at the end of this long line of cars that we sat in for almost an hour. It is not uncommon to get stuck in long lines of traffic that seem to appear for no reason at all, or because of some political type reason, like a blitz. This was our encounter on Paralella late one night. Often this stretch is plagued with traffic like this because of either the FTC college site or the Wet and Wild concert venue. We figured that was probably the case when we got stuck in this line, but as we finally got to the end we started to smell a horrible stench, and came upon a body in the middle of the stretch of 4-6 lanes of traffic, covered with a sheet. It was rather shocking, even though this is not the first dead body in a road I have seen in my life. And considering it was stinking so badly, I imagine it had been there for some time. Apparently only the morgue can come to remove a body, and there is some paperwork involved, so the long line of cars probably continued to pass it for some time after we did, waiting for the red tape to be cut. For a few nights after we passed it, I couldn't sleep well, and kept seeing the strange position of the legs in my head. Rather awful, and yet so much a part of this reality.

Morning Rituals

7 AM is a very busy time here in Salvador - people on their way to work, kids on their way to school, and delivery trucks are out in storm, leaving their goods where ever they are needed, often in the middle of major traffic routes.

Here, for example, is our coconut distribution service. Besides the local kids who collect them and sell them individually, there are companies that "harvest" the coconuts and bring them into the city in big trucks that may have "DISK côco" painted on them (DISK is what you call truck delivery; we have DISK banana, DISK sugar cane, DISK gas...). Unfortunately, as traffic was moving, you can just barely see there are two guys with large metal shopping carts, loading up coconuts to take to their stands which I assume must be somewhere nearby. This particular delivery was being made near a bus stop on Tancredo Neves Ave, one of the main veins (even shown on Googlemaps as a yellow road, so you know it's a serious route) of the city. Not that we would be concerned about traffic slowing....

Water doesn't grow on tress, but we have DISK water as well. This truck is loaded every day from the distribution center building, or maybe vice versa, I have never been sure. Nice clean water, coming out of nice blue bottles. Yet not more than 50 yards from this nice clean water waiting to arrive in your home, is a small river that is so full of garbage and sewage that you can barely walk past it without passing out from the fumes on a hot day. And, I might add, it is populated by dwellings of the lower class who must be immune to the smell by now. At least this DISK, on Orla - another major route to everywhere, parks on the sidewalk instead of in the road...

For sale

There is no shortage of abandoned buildings and homes here, even in the "nicer" neighborhoods like Caminho das Árvores and Pituba. Some fall victim to squatters who can enter and live in a property for some time and then claim it as theirs because they are occupying it. Still others remain untouched except for the signs spray painted here and there and the graffiti added some time afterwards. These places have been abandoned since I moved here, but perhaps now they will find an international buyer since I am posting their photos on the site (*smirk*).

The world of EFL

I have been sitting on this photo for a while, trying to wait until I got several photos of English schools and then could post a kind of series, but I am demorando too much, so the series will be rather disjointed.

You can't walk through a barrio here without tripping over an English school or two. Every Brasilian studies English in their regular school, but often it is not taught in a way that allows for a student to get much out of it apparently, and most attend a secondary English school in the afternoons. At the end of these courses (can take anywhere between 3 and 6 years to complete) a student generally "graduates" with some sort of certificate declaring them to speak English (although I suspect this is rarely the reality).

Because of this huge market, there are big schools with several branches (ACBEU, CCAA, Cultura Inglesa, etc) and other schools with only one or two branches (too numerous to name). Many of them seem to choose the colors of red, blue, and yellow to decorate and designate their schools, like this one here called Skill. The buildings can range in all sizes, but many seem to be rather on the small side to be a "school." I have only ever been inside of two, both of which were on the large side, so I cannot imagine how a smaller school building is set up in terms of class size or number of classes available.

The makings of a fun afternoon

Welcome back!

This shot was just too good to pass up. Some friends of ours live in a rather rustic condominium towards Itapua. It's full of kids who play soccer in the street and pot holes and a couple of stray dogs. This past weekend when we went to visit, it also had a large Skol (a popular Brasilian beer that I personally think tastes like ass) cooler in the middle of the street next door to a really interesting chopper that vaguely reminded me of a dune buggy and may even be designed for use on the beach. Unfortunately it was not plugged in...

The state of the world

Of all the nice photos I could have taken on my travels that show how incredibley insane and annoying air travel is here - I was on vacation and I did not. But let me just tell you that I spent more time in airports than I would have liked and sat in a terminal for hours with no flights leaving or arriving and thousands of people just sitting around. I will get some photos moving here soon though, rest assured, just as soon as school starts and I am able to think strait.

This week in Bahia goes on vacation

I know it seems like I must be doing it all the time, due to my sporatic posts over the last few months, but now I am going on a actual vacation - out of the country. So, obviously I won't be able to post anything until I get back, unless it is of something other than Bahia, which would, really, defeate the purpose of this blog. So, just to hold you all over for a while, here are several photos to ponder until my return in July.

As you may or may not know, the months of May, June, and July are winter here. Winter means rain and sun in the same ten minute stretch with no way to be assured that you will remain dry if you leave the house without an umbrella, no matter what the sky looks like in the morning, or what the forecast (hahaha) says. Most of the time, there is so much rain that the streets flood a bit and slow down traffic. And no matter what time of year it is, drivers seem to feel rain merits more cautious driving (hahaha), so you will likely be later than you plan if you head out in the rain. This particular door has nothing to do with the story, other than that the shot was taken in the rain. I thought it was a particularly nice picture, somewhere in Brotas.



This photo is particularly nice because of the nice "late" day sun shining on select spots on the building (late day being about 4pm, sun setting around 5:30ish), as well as showing the ingenius "jeito"for older building adaptations to electrical connections. Coming from somewhere out of the shot is a direct connection to the wires running electricity into this particular building - one connection obviously is somewhat planned, because you can see the glass fuses on the side of the building. The other, however, comes from I'm not sure where and goes directly into the corner of a window to supply power to a store that probably didn't have any connections before. Rather than breaking through walls and doing costly renovations, the easiest way to get your power is to go around the outside. Not astetically pleasing, but very common, even in newer buildings (our downstairs bathroom uses this route for an over head light, and it was built in the late 80's!).



You can buy almost anything you want on the street. The most common is pirated CDs and DVDs. Just yesterday I saw that Shrek 3 is already out for sale on the street, along with Ocean's 13. There seems to be no way to prevent it, at least in this country, and guys selling these illegal copies are almost as common as window washers. This one is stationed next to a bus stop, as vendors often are (there and at traffic lights). I have no idea why no one ever gets arrested for doing this, but I have never heard of it. I suppose it's better to be selling something, however illegal, instead of stealing.


And last but not least....

This great green tunnel is the entrance to the Salvador Airport, where I will be headed tomorow afternoon for an 18+ hour journey north. It's kind of a landmark and very memorable. This great green forest is made entirely of bamboo (it grows wild here, all over, who knew?) and goes about 3/4 of a mile (I think). It's quite attractive and makes you have the urge to pop out and take a few pictures, except that you might get run down by the other passing motorists who drive like bats out of hell through it. I have a friend who actually did wander around being photographed here, naked, as she told me, and was almost arrested.

Urban Cowboy

It's not terribley unusual here to see horses, or any kind of farm animal/livestock, within city limits on a regular basis. People keep them all over, and they are left grazing the grasses at the side of major roads, sometimes tied up, sometimes not, and are frequent road hazzards for unsuspecting motorists if they happen to think the grass on the other side might be tastier than where they are. Less common, at least in city limits, is the cowboy riding along the street (other than cops). This guy wasn't really riding in the street, but on the sidewalk between the lanes in each direction. He even had a saddle, which you usually don't see, and seemed dressed for the part. The only thing missing here is the cellphone he was chatting on right before I managed to drag out my camera.

Tree trimmers

I have been sitting on this photo for about 2 weeks for some reason. Just too lazy to log in and upload it I guess, that and the constant Ju distraction is making it difficult to sit down and finish anything online in a consistant time frame.

These are the tree trimmers of Coelba (electric company). Not that you can usually see the electric lines from the street anyway, but the overgrown trees do seem to become too overgrown and then they show up and trim peices off here and there at odd hours, like 7 am on a Sunday. There were 5 guys in this truck. In this photo, two of them were somewhere else picking up branches off the ground and dragging them either to this truck or into piles on the street. I have no idea what conditions allowed for one branch to enter the truck while others were left behind. There did not seem to be any commonly observable rule.

The truck would slowly drive along the street, stop under a random tree and extend this rickety ladder and I would not have trusted to climb on. One guy climbs up, jiggling the ladder all the way up, and starts cutting branches - with a large (and probably very very sharp) machete. This makes the shakey contraption wiggle even more and I feared I was going to witness some underpaid worker fall to his death or permanent handicap. After the branch was sufficiently hacked off with the giant knife, it would either drop to the ground where perhaps another worker would retrieve, or it would be somehow hooked on the wires you see attatched to the ladder, and shimmied down into the back of the truck. A neat contraption, but I wouldn't want to climb it and I bet in the States you'd have to sign about 30 papers stating you wouldn't sue anyone if you took off your arm somewhere in this process.

The rainy season

And so begins winter time. Supposedly arctic air is pushing up from the south, making us windy and cooler here. It was almost so cold I didn't want to shower this morning. It is not infrequent to see people dressed in jackets, hats and scarves in weather like this - outfits much akin to a brisk fall day in MI, right along side people dressed like those in this photo. Today, I wore long sleeves, a long skirt, and I seriously considered if I should take a jacket or not. When I got home, I had hot cocoa. Tonight I will probably sleep with a blanket - it's only like 75! Brrrrrrrr.....

Mosquitos beware

Long time no post. I have no real excuse other than lack of inspiration, until this week.

Not the best picture, I know. If you look closely, you will see a white truck with a sort of "sprayer" on the back, blowing out a smokey substance that hangs in the air for some time after it passes. This is the public health department's "Contra Dengue" movement. Several times a year, they send people to your house to walk through, put insecticide of some kind in your drains, and check all the places in your house where you might have standing water where mosquitos could lay eggs. Apparently they also send a truck around to blow mosquito killing fumes into the trees in residential areas. What the truck is spraying, I have no idea. Years of working for MSU Entomology made me terribley paranoid of things being sprayed out of the back of trucks to kill insects. Yet there were people walking around on the street as this truck went by, and they seemed unfazed.

The smoke hangs in the air a bit and I imagine settles on the leaves and the ground, doing it's job. How much of it is in my lungs?

Borracharia

Need tires? Just look for the sign made of a tire, or a large stack of them at the side of the road. Looking for new tires? Probably won't find them here. At least, it doesn't seem like many non-fully automated with lifts and what not stores sell new ones. If it doesn't look like a typical USA style tire store, you will probably have to go for the new used tire, which is much cheaper and more common. These hole in the wall stores are much more common than the fully automated ones. They can patch your tires, replace them, buy your used ones, you name it. Looks like this one does bike tires as well. Shame the bus got in the way of the cool sign made of a tire. Oh well.

(singing) The itsy bitsy anty....

No, it's not dirt. What you are looking at are the tinyest ants I have ever seen. They are by far the most irritating insect that infests homes here in Brasil (beating mosquitos only because at least there is a repelant for those). They work just as fast as the super speed ants upstairs, but they are always around, and are on everything, even me. Ever feel that tickle that might be a loose hair touching your arm? Nope, it's an ant. And that itchy feeling on your neck? Also an ant. Tickel in your nose or ear? Probably an ant. I can't figure out how to get rid of them - the smaller they are, the more ellusive they are. I wouldn't mind them so much if the didn't also populate the trash cans as well as investigave my table and Ju's high chair tray (which is where they are in this picture). They have sort of artistically surrounded some spilled juice here, but that doesn't really add anything credible to their CV in my book.